FOCUS PINCE

Pubblicato da Flavia Fantoli il

 

 

 

“PIZZICARE” UN TESSUTO

 

Ago, filo, punti, orli, margini, sbieco…sono tante le parole che ritraggono l'arte del cucito!

Tra queste c'è anche una parola di origine francese che va a indicare una piega per modellare il vostro indumento: pince.

 

Sicuramente non vi sarà sconosciuta, ma probabilmente non avrete mai avuto modo di approfondire le caratteristiche e la realizzazione di una pince.

Come anticipato, la parola è di origine francese e proviene dal verbo “pizzicare". Se in un capo sono presenti le pince, vedrete, allora, delle pieghe, cucite internamente, che danno forma all’indumento.

Esistono pince sagomate o coniche e hanno forme differenti, ognuna in grado di adattarsi meglio alle vostre necessità.

Ad esempio se avete troppo tessuto nella zona della vita, la pince in vita è la soluzione che fa per voi! Infatti si tratta di una pince retta, perfetta come problem solving del vostro eccesso di tessuto! Un’altra pince interessante è quella francese, che va dai lati della vita di un capo fino a piegarsi nella parte del corpetto.

 

Vediamo ora come realizzare le pince! Innanzitutto dovete avere “sottomano” tutto il necessario per poter procedere.

Di seguito vi elenchiamo tutto l’occorrente:

  • ago;
  • filo;
  • spilli;
  • gesso;
  • riga;
  • ferro da stiro.

 

La realizzazione delle pince inizia dal cartamodello: per definire la loro dimensione, dovete considerare la misura che volete raggiungere e sottrarla al tessuto che avete tagliato, per poi dividere il risultato ottenuto per il numero di pince che volete realizzare. Il  primo passaggio è quello di spostare i segni delle pince presenti sul cartamodello nel vostro capo, attraverso un gesso con il quale definire le pince sul tessuto. Prendete il davanti del capo e procedete sul rovescio.

“Pizzicate” la pince, andando a piegare il “triangolo” che viene a formarsi con il trasferimento della pince dal cartamodello al tessuto e mettete gli spilli in sua corrispondenza, sia alle estremità che al centro, così da averla ben ferma. Ora, con ago e filo, potete procedere all’imbastitura della pince, così da realizzare una cucitura provvisoria della stessa. 

A mano a mano che imbastite, togliete gli spilli. Concluso l’ultimo punto, realizzate un nodo e tagliate il filo in eccesso con la forbice. In questo modo fissate la pince, prima di continuare con la sua cucitura definitiva. L’imbastitura è utile anche per portare a termine una lavorazione più precisa, oltre che per darvi una prima cucitura per bloccare la pince.

Una volta eseguita l’imbastitura della parte davanti del vostro capo, prendete anche il dietro e procedete sempre sul rovescio. Eseguite lo stesso procedimento: “pizzicate” la pince e mettete gli spilli per fermarla. Dopo aver messo gli spilli, anche in questo caso, procedete con l’imbastitura della pince, togliendo gli spilli a mano a mano che realizzate la vostra cucitura provvisoria. Terminato l’ultimo punto, fate un nodo e tagliate il filo in eccesso.

Adesso è il momento della cucitura definitiva!

Sia che realizziate la cucitura a macchina oppure a mano, dovete procedere alla cucitura dalla parte più larga della pince a quella più stretta. Realizzate un nodo finale, dopo aver fatto l’ultimo punto e tagliate il filo in eccesso. Terminata la cucitura di tutte le pince, la lavorazione è conclusa e potete procedere allo stiro.

Stiratela dal rovescio con i lati uniti, così da appiattirla. Prima pressate sulla parte interna della pince, per poi far pressione in corrispondenza della linea di cucitura. Questo è il metodo più semplice per realizzare una pince e, anche se siete alle prime armi, non troverete particolari difficoltà nell’eseguirlo.

 

Vediamo ora come realizzare una pince francese, una delle più interessanti! Pronte?

Come anticipato, la pince francese procede dai bordi della vita del vostro indumento e va a piegarsi nella zona del corpetto. La pince, quindi, viene disegnata sul cartamodello verso la parte centrale e la parte superiore, bloccandosi a 4 cm al di sotto del busto.

Trasferite la pince sul tessuto e chiudetela, mettendo, così, dritto contro dritto.

La pince francese è una pince larga, per la quale viene lasciato 1 cm all’estremità per la cucitura che realizzerete. Procedete facendo una cucitura dal vertice della pince, così da avere i bordi che corrispondono perfettamente. La vostra pince francese è realizzata, un vero tocco di stile!

 

Esteticamente le pince sono utili perché permettono di far aderire il capo alla figura, evitandovi abbondanze di tessuto, scomode e che possono rendervi insoddisfatte.

Inoltre avere dimestichezza con le pince, vi torna utile anche per stringere un indumento acquistato, che non vi cade perfettamente!

 

Nel tempo le pince hanno lasciato spazio ai capi senza pince, morbidi ed eclettici . Gli anni che hanno segnato il loro ritorno sono stati gli anni ’80. Da lì in poi le pince hanno ottenuto sempre più successo di anno in anno.

 

Ora che sapete come gestire le pince, potete perfettamente modellare i vostri capi e sistemare quelli che avevate deciso di eliminare dal vostro armadio, stringendoli con delle pince… stile e e armonia delle forme assicurati!


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