COME RIFINIRE I MARGINI

Pubblicato da Flavia Fantoli il

I METODI

 Che emozione creare un capo! Cucire e unire tra loro i tessuti, vedendo la nostra idea mentale prendere forma!

Nel corso della realizzazione di un capo, tra le varie fasi c’è anche quella di rifinitura dei margini, che permette di rendere più completo e resistente il vostro indumento.

Perché è così importante realizzarla? È essenziale per evitare che i bordi si sfilino, senza dare l’aspetto di vero capo sartoriale alla vostra creazione!

 

Pensate sia difficile rifinire i margini per completare un capo?

Dovete sapere che esistono più modi per rifinirli e noi siamo pronti a vedere i principali insieme a voi per aiutarvi in questo fase di lavorazione del vostro nuovo indumento!

Siete pronte a scoprirli?

 

I metodi di rifinitura dei margini più ricorrenti:

  • a mano;
  • zig-zag;
  • profilato;
  • passamaneria;
  • taglia e cuci.

                        

Ora li vediamo uno per volta, così da non lasciarvi dubbi sulla rifinitura dei margini del vostro capo… non ci saranno più segreti per voi!

 

Per rifinire i margini a mano considerate un margine di cucitura di 1 cm con tessuti leggeri, mentre di 2 cm con tessuti più pesanti. Per prima cosa stirate i margini così da renderli ben piatti. Realizzate un’impuntura sul rovescio per fissare i margini. Per realizzare l’impuntura, dal rovescio portate il filo sul dritto. Procedendo da destra a sinistra, infilate l’ago nel tessuto e fuoriuscite verso sinistra, prendendo alcuni fili con l’ago. Tornate, poi, nel punto iniziale e vi spostate di qualche filo. Mantenete, ogni volta, un numero di fili uniforme, così da avere punti di ugual misura. Terminata l’impuntura, stirate i margini di cucitura per appiattirli.

 

La rifinitura attraverso il metodo zig-zag è quella più impiegata. Viene, tra l’altro, utilizzato anche per rammendare un capo oppure per ricamare, dal momento che il suo motivo appare molto brioso e frizzante.

Per rifinire i margini con punto zig-zag, utilizzando la macchina da cucire, dovete infilare l’ago sul tessuto e poi nella parte esterna, realizzando una serie di punti alternati, il tutto facendo strisciare il tessuto.

 

La rifinitura con margine profilato è molto impiegata per capispalla sprovvisti di fodera e che necessitano di essere rifiniti internamente. Per profilare il margine di un tessuto dovete impiegare il nastro in sbieco. Come applicare lo sbieco? Fate aderire i bordi non rifiniti dello sbieco tramite una piega laterale interna. Mettete gli spilli, così da unire sbieco e tessuto. Sormontate di 1 cm e iniziate a cucire lo sbieco al vostro tessuto. Procedete, poi, allo stiro internamente al capo. Cucite, di nuovo, accanto al lato ripiegato dello sbieco dalla parte del dritto.

 

Un modo semplice per rifinire i margini riguarda l'utilizzo di una passamaneria. Ne potete trovare di diversi tipi, colorati, con motivi floreali o sfrangiati, traforati e anche gioiello. Potete, quindi, adattarli alle vostre esigenze, scegliendo quello più indicato alla vostra creazione.

Volete sapere come applicarla? Prendete ago e filo!

La passamaneria può essere impiegata sia per rifinire che per dare un elemento decorativo. Potete cucirla con un punto filza oppure un punto invisibile. Il primo perfetto per passamanerie di piccole dimensioni, il secondo per passamanerie più importanti. Conclusa la cucitura, sul rovescio del tessuto, dovete applicare un cordoncino eseguendo un punto invisibile.

 

Utilizzando, invece, la taglia e cuci potete rifinire i margini in maniera rapida e precisa.

Procedete mettendo il vostro tessuto sotto il piedino della taglia e cuci per rifinire i margini.

Ne esistono di vario tipo, con diverse tipologie di punti e anche con cuciture per decorazioni, oltre a velocità nella lavorazione.

 

Dopo aver visto i metodi principali per rifinire i margini di un tessuto, siete pronte a portare a termine il vostro nuovo capo. Un vero capo sartoriale… che lascerà a bocca aperta tutte le vostre amiche!


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